I Hear It's Windy

Thanks to the miracle of pre-scheduled blog posts, this is being posted at 10:30 in the morning even though, with any luck, I'm actually on a plane to Chicago right now. And why am I going to Chicago? Ostensibly, because of the YearlyKos convention. The real truth, however, is more complicated and more delicious.

A little while back, you see, I was flying to DC from Albuquerque and had a layover in Midway Airport. Looking for something to eat, I came across a place selling what looked like a delicious pastrami sandwich like from the lost Jewish delis of my youth. I ordered one and . . . it was improbably great for airport food. Turned out to be an airport branch of a real Chicago delicatessen -- Manny's. Well, I thought to myself, if only I had a pretext to get work to send me to Chicago at some point. And then the solution emerged: YearlyKos. I do, however, take my work seriously and promise to provide top-notch coverage of non-sandwich aspects of the convention.

UPDATE: Oh, I -- I screwed up and accidentally hit the "publish" button. I'm not leaving for Chicago until tomorrow morning. Bad day. Oy.

Photo by Flickr user Pemanently Scatterbrained used under a Creative Commons license

Comments

That does look mighty tasty. The deep-dish pizzas, however, are overrated, and also not really pizzas.

Posted by JP | August 1, 2007 12:56 PM

I assure you the real Manny's, on Roosevelt Rd., is much better than the airport branch. Well worth visiting.

Posted by AWC | August 1, 2007 12:58 PM

My favorite American city. Just awesome, when the weather's nice. Enjoy.

Posted by Freddie | August 1, 2007 1:00 PM

Don't miss Mr. Beef, best Italian beef sandwich in the city. It's at 666 N. Orleans, just north of the loop. Open till 2.

Posted by Matt | August 1, 2007 1:04 PM

The nickname "windy city" comes from the 19th century when there were a number of gasbag politicians from Chicago. It has nothing to do with wind of the meteoroligical variety.

Boston, San Francisco and New York (because of their coastal locations) are far windier cities.

Posted by hopeless pedant | August 1, 2007 1:04 PM

That does look mighty tasty. The deep-dish pizzas, however, are overrated, and also not really pizzas.

That, sir, is ridiculous.

Go to Uno's. It is simply the best pizza in the world.

I'm convinced that the Uno's chain that you can find across America was an evil plot to sully the reputation of Chicago pizza.

Posted by goosen | August 1, 2007 1:06 PM

Matt, please don't overdo Manny's--you will not make it out of Chicago alive. Just looking at their pastrami "sandwiches" (more like a mountain of cured meat on some bread) increases one's stroke risk by 40%.

Posted by Andrew | August 1, 2007 1:07 PM

The picture makes me long for the return of the much-maligned "view from your breakfast" feature. Did you run out of food groups?

Posted by Steve | August 1, 2007 1:07 PM

I question the humanity of anyone who looks at that picture and thinks, "god, that looks unhealthy!" before they think, "god, that looks delicious!"

Posted by too many steves | August 1, 2007 1:09 PM

Weirdly, Manny's is the only good deli in Chicago. I love Chicago, and it is truly one of the great food cities in America (from Hot Doug's to Charlie Trotter's). For some reason, though, it has worse Jewish food than many cities with much smaller tribal populations (like Detroit, for example). I've never been able to figure it out -- it's the only hole in Chicago's food resume. Manny's on Roosevelt Rd. is, I will say, quite amazing (it's chicken soup with matzoh balls is to die for) but it is oddly alone in the pantheon of good Jewish food in Chicago.

Posted by IP guy | August 1, 2007 1:11 PM

I was raised in Chicago (in the pre-Cambrian era), and I deeply wish that there was a neighborhood here in Stumptown with corned beef and pastrami on rye (with huge kosher pickle) as heavenly as those in the deli's in Skokie (north of Chicago, west of Evanston) - which at the time of was a center of all good things Jewish.

But they sliced the beef much thinner than the pic shown, and piled it much higher. Freshly sliced and hot: hmmmmmmm.

Almost as good as Chicago's White Castle hamburgers. heheh

Posted by JimPortlandOR | August 1, 2007 1:18 PM

One of the best deals in the city to my mind is Bacci Pizza next to the El stop at Addison, right next to Wrigley Field. You can get a huge (like two slices in one) piece of pizza and a soda for $4. I used to buy a slice and cut it in half and eat one half for dinner and one for lunch when I was really broke.

Of course, for some people of the hip persuasion going to Wrigleyville in baseball season can be like getting a root canal. I personally used to live 60 yards from the stadium so it doesn't bother me. But there are a lot of douche bags around.

Posted by Freddie | August 1, 2007 1:21 PM

Your really also have to get a latke, they're unlike any other I've ever had (and way better, which is saying something).

Posted by Sam Boyd | August 1, 2007 1:26 PM

Footnote to photo: Even with the blurred background, the location of the photographed sandwich is undeniably Katz's Deli on the Lower East Side of Manhattan--possibly one of the Jewish delis of Matt's youth, but not a lost one yet.

Posted by James Gary | August 1, 2007 1:27 PM

"I'm convinced that the Uno's chain that you can find across America was an evil plot to sully the reputation of Chicago pizza. "

I used to go to Uno's in Philadelphia and DC about 25-20 years ago. It was very good. About 15 years ago they all seemed to nosedive in quality. No idea what happened.

Posted by Njorl | August 1, 2007 1:32 PM

I'll match your Manny's, and raise you a Schwartz's, Montreal. See if you can't get there for a Kossian Konference. Claim you need neutral ground or some shit.

Posted by Sam | August 1, 2007 1:51 PM

For some reason, though, it has worse Jewish food than many cities with much smaller tribal populations (like Detroit, for example).

You cannot even get a good bagel in Chicago.

Posted by Steve | August 1, 2007 2:03 PM

As a recently expatriated Chicagoan, I can say that Ada's is also a pretty good deli. But there aren't many in the city limits.

As far as Chicago-style pizza, bleh. If I wanted an inch of melted cheese on a pie crust with a few crushed tomatoes drizzled on top, I'd order it. The best pizza is either faux-Italian (Pizza D.O.C.) or faux-NY (Ricobene's). But the dogs are great, so long as you go outside the Loop. Take the Red Line south to 35th (by Sox Park--it's safe as long as you stay west of the highway) and cut over half a mile to O'Malleys. Or go to the tourist traps like Weiner Circle.

Also, make sure you hit the three 20-something staples of Chicago cuisine--Thai, good Guadalajaran Mexican, and cheap steaks. Especially for the latter two, it's something you can't find anywhere else in the US (that I know of).

Posted by Joe | August 1, 2007 2:12 PM

"You cannot even get a good bagel in Chicago."

Maybe the City of Chicago, but if you don't think there are good bagels to be found in Skokie you're out of your mind.

Posted by lh | August 1, 2007 2:14 PM

Zingerman's!

pastrami reubens to die for.

Posted by A^2 | August 1, 2007 2:17 PM

The guy who said you can't get a good bagel in Chicago is crazy -- New York Bagels and Biayls on Touhy Ave. (technically in that no-man's land around lincolnwood, skokie and Chicago) serves amazing bagels, hot and fresh. Of course, if you strictly stick to the Chicago city limits, you may be right. Again, as I said, the Jewish food is a weird hole. The Thai, Mexican, Polish and steaks, however, are in another category entirely.

Chicago stuffed pizza (as performed by a handful of authentic types like the original Uno's (not the franchise out of the city), Lou Malnattis and the Art of Pizza) is excellent, but not really pizza (Spacca Napoli in Ravenswood is excellent "real" pizza as good as anything anywhere).

As for hot dogs, anyone who tells you that Hot Doug's is not the best hot dog in the land is an idiot (whether the traditional or the more crazy type -- see today's specials at http://hotdougs.com/specials.htm)

Posted by IP Guy | August 1, 2007 2:25 PM

After that little dusty-up at Sadly No!, I'm surprised that you would take on the touchy issue of sandwich selection.

Posted by FS | August 1, 2007 2:30 PM

My fiancee grew up in Berwyn, about 5 miles west of Chicago proper. One of the first places she took me in the city was Manny's. Matt, you really should get to the real restaurant.

"The Bagel," Broadway and Barry in Lakeview. Anything you order is huge, and they stick a very good bagel on it just for kicks.

There's another small place on Broadway near Clark, a tiny barely noticeable restaurant, a non-chain fast food place owned and operated by a hilarious old Greek guy, that I ate at when I was in Chicago for the Pitchfork festival this summer. I don't know what it was called, but we got two cheeseburgers, fries, and a large chocolate milkshake for 8 bucks. It was more than enough food for two people and it was great.

Posted by Aaron | August 1, 2007 2:49 PM

The wind off Lake Michigan has a certain, special tang...

Posted by Gregorio | August 1, 2007 2:54 PM

The guy who said you can't get a good bagel in Chicago is crazy -- New York Bagels and Biayls on Touhy Ave. (technically in that no-man's land around lincolnwood, skokie and Chicago) serves amazing bagels, hot and fresh.

Yeah, I mean, maybe you can drive out to Aurora and get a great bagel, but that's really not what I had in mind. Where in the reasonable vicinity of downtown or the North Loop can you get a decent bagel? Nowhere that I ever found.

Posted by Steve | August 1, 2007 3:07 PM

Steve, actually I was just reminded by a colleague that there is one other place you can get good bagels (and good deli) in Chicago: Eleven City Diner on Wabash: http://www.elevencitydiner.com/

Posted by IP Guy | August 1, 2007 3:26 PM

Maybe as important as the food at Manny's is who goes there, which is basically every important Chicago politician ---- the aldermen and county boys are eating there every day, and Richie still pops in a bit. It's THE political hangout for day-time dining.

I hope the Kos crew gets away from the convention area and checks out the rest of the city too --- Andersonville, Bucktown, Logan Square all have some unique bars and restaurants that you won't get downtown or on the Gold Coast.

Posted by Colin | August 1, 2007 3:27 PM

"I hope the Kos crew gets away from the convention area and checks out the rest of the city too --- Andersonville, Bucktown, Logan Square all have some unique bars and restaurants that you won't get downtown or on the Gold Coast."

Or, ironically, stays around the convention area on the near southside and experiences some of the fun, CHEAP, off-the-beaten-path places. For example, I'd go to:

Three Happiness in Chinatown
Ramova (breakfast) or Polo Nut (lunch/dinner) for a real Bridgeport politico feel
Tio Luis in Brighton Park for the best taqueria food in the city
Picante Grill on Halsted and 18th for good high-end Mexican (comparable to Frontera for half the price)
Opart Thai on 19th and State for good Thai within walking distance

Posted by Joe | August 1, 2007 3:37 PM

Yeah, I mean, maybe you can drive out to Aurora and get a great bagel, but that's really not what I had in mind.

Aurora? There ain't no Jews in Aurora.

Posted by goethean | August 1, 2007 3:45 PM

There's another small place on Broadway near Clark, a tiny barely noticeable restaurant, a non-chain fast food place owned and operated by a hilarious old Greek guy, that I ate at when I was in Chicago for the Pitchfork festival this summer.

I believe you're referring to Yango's, which advertises on its sign that they trade in "Burgers 'n' Stuff".

Posted by Quarterican | August 1, 2007 4:04 PM

I've been in LA for 3 years or so and the food is miss most from Chicago is the Italian Beef (that and Giordano's). We have a Portillo's out here near Anaheim, but with traffic it's quite a hike heading to Orange County from WeHo.

Posted by Charlie | August 1, 2007 4:52 PM

Maybe I read too fast but no mention of a Chicago hot dog, which must be sampled. Don't ask for ketchup since that is a capital offense. The best thing however is a Chicago Style Italian Beef, with hot peppers. The main chains are really OK for this stuff but some insiders might be able to point the way to an extra good local hole in the wall.

An interesting fact on that old meme about crooked Chicago elections. Yes, the dead did vote at times. No, it didn't make a bit of difference. I'm not defending it but the Machine was going to win anyway, the extra margin was strictly to gild the lilly of local precinct captains.

Nixon asked for recounts in several states, West Virginia as I recall and others, but not Illinois. Now why is that you ask? Because there was widespread cheating downstate, which means everywhere but Cook county. So Nixon didn't want to turn over that rock. I grew up in a county north west of Chicago and it has never elected a Democrat to a county wide office. NEVER.

The Illinois GOP never really went in for the 'conservative' revolution because they had so many safe seats. No real competition so no real fight in them. Every school kid is taught to be proud their state was the home of Lincoln, so a large plurality end up becomming Repubicans. Of course the dirty big city is Democratic

Posted by rapier | August 1, 2007 5:09 PM

If you stay until Saturday, the roast beef and mushroom barley soup at Mannies are great as well. Also, for bars and clubs, head directly West from the Loop. There are incredible places like the Twisted Spoke, The California Clipper, and the Double Door.

Posted by Joe | August 1, 2007 5:33 PM

I grew up in a suburb northwest of Chicago too. Most of the state of Illinois is culturally and politically closer to the northeast than the midwest. yeah, religious conservatism doesn't work. too much diversity. too many catholics.

Posted by hmmm | August 1, 2007 5:39 PM

Manny's is very good (i usually opt for the corn beef/pastrami combo 'cause i can never decide) and, of course, the guys behind the counter are part of the fun. You're gonna have to take a taxi from McCormick 'cause there ain't any convenient public transport connecting the two (it looks deceptively close on any map, be forewarned!). Near McCormick is Chinatown and Lao Sze Shaun is amongst the best (in the mall where Archer and Cermack cross); Phoenix has good weekend dim sum (and there is another 'rant in the strip mall next to Lao Sze Shaun that i go to during the week for dim sum). Chicago's Chinese, though not NY, certainly tops DC's lame efforts. Also near McCormick is the Velvet Lounge, just a great jazz bar that bridges the black/white divide; local AACM cats are playing this week-end. Lastly, a nearby neighborhood that one should investigate is Pilsen. First settled by Central European immigrants, it is now home to a strong Mexican immigrant community (the fine arts museum there is always worth a visit) and lots of artists; the two churchs in the 'hood reflect the history of its inhabitants. Mundiale, on 18th and Ashland, is the culinary highpoint of high-end mexican cuisine at tacqueria prices (squash blossom empanadas are not to be missed!). Cubs are in town and are winning, tix are hard to come by. It is also gonna be hot, so check out the lakeshore...best to swim off the rocks at 55th St. (aka The Point). Enjoy.

Posted by lawrence rocke | August 1, 2007 6:01 PM

"Most of the state of Illinois is culturally and politically closer to the northeast than the midwest."

Really? I had exactly the opposite experience. Setting aside Chicago and its burbs, Illinois always seemed to be equal parts Indiana, Iowa and Missouri, with a dash of Wisconsin thrown in.

Posted by Joe | August 1, 2007 6:01 PM

Max and Benny's way the hell up in the north suburbs has the best corned beef sandwich in Chicago.

Posted by dw | August 1, 2007 6:06 PM

"Lao Sze Shaun is amongst the best"

Ding ding ding! Totally forgot about this. One warning -- if it says spicy, it means SPICY. This is one of the places that can actually make the food too hot for my taste.

Posted by Joe | August 1, 2007 6:07 PM

I'll match your Manny's, and raise you a Schwartz's, Montreal.

Ditto. Or even a "smoked meat" sandwich from the Main Deli across the street. Montreal wins again!

Posted by Frank | August 1, 2007 6:40 PM

I will admit that Montreal has surprisingly good deli, but I would call it even with Manny's, not necessarily better. Monreal is actually a pretty good analogue in terms of level of food quality with Chicago. Neither one is in the category of New York, which is simply ridiculous in terms of scale and scope (New York, London, Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo are the best). But Montreal, Toronto and Chicago (along with San Francisco) make up a solid second tier.

Posted by IP Guy | August 1, 2007 6:52 PM

Chicago stuffed pizza (as performed by a handful of authentic types like the original Uno's

Uno's is pan pizza, not stuffed. Giordano's is stuffed, and disgusting. Stuffed pizza arrived in Chicago in the mid 70s. Pan pizza was always there - Uno's, Gino's, and the Silo way up North.

Posted by Gary Sugar | August 1, 2007 7:21 PM

yes, new york, london, paris, and tokyo might have more variety and a slightly better cuisine. but the prices are insane. chicago is a very economical city.

Posted by thehova | August 1, 2007 8:32 PM

If you go on Saturday, the roast beef sandwich and mushroom barley soup are great at Manny's. Btw, if you're looking for interesting bars and clubs in Chicago after yearly Kos, go slightly northwest from the Loop to the Westtown/Ukrainian Village neighborhood- to places like the California Clipper, Doubledoor, the Matchbox, Empty Bottle, Black Beetle, and the Twisted Spoke (which has great burgers as well).

Posted by Joe | August 1, 2007 9:38 PM

If you want true Chicago food, go to Edwardo's (many locations) and have a deep-dish pizza. Absolute ambrosia.

Posted by beckya57 | August 2, 2007 2:00 AM

A question from a non-American: Are sandwiches like that common in the US? I mean, calling it a sandwich does a disservice to the word -- the thing was mostly meat! 10+ layers of meat. (It's almost offensive.) And where were the veges? (Unless mustard and cracked pepper somehow count...)

Posted by Tony | August 2, 2007 6:36 AM

I see that Sam and Manny beat me to the punch above. But allow me to be the third commenter to recommend Schwartz's in Montreal. It's delicious: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schwartz%27s

Posted by Nordy | August 2, 2007 9:06 AM

Don't forget Gold Coast Dogs. One of my favorite places.

And to answer Tony's question, no, that's a rather extreme example. Most restaurants serves sandwiches with only about half as much meat.

Posted by Alan | August 2, 2007 9:43 AM