Germany's Favorite Veggie

I like asparagus. It's perhaps my favorite of the vegetables. But Via Adam Blickstein I see that the Germans seem to be taking things too far:

During its short season, asparagus features prominently on restaurant menus and café chalkboards across the country, reflecting Germans' obsession with the prized vegetable. In fact, they eat more white asparagus than anyone else in the world, chomping their way through 1.35 kilos (three pounds) per head.

It isn't difficult for gourmets to find fresh local asparagus, since with a production of some 82,000 tons, Germany is the biggest asparagus grower in Europe. The area under asparagus production in the country has doubled in the past 12 years to nearly 20,000 hectares, making asparagus the country's biggest vegetable crop in terms of area and value.

Something to keep in mind if you're having Germans over for dinner. Related.

Comments

That explains the smell in the bathrooms over there.

Posted by lfv | June 14, 2008 2:20 PM

Their white asparagus really is that good. If you've never had it, you don't know what your missing. It doesn't travel well, and the season is very short, so you must go to Europe to try it.

What's more puzzling: can anyone explain the rationale behind the design of German toilets?

Posted by ces | June 14, 2008 2:27 PM

I bought some white asparagus in France, went to the trouble of peeling it, cooking it extra long, and found it tasteless. When I blogged about my experience on my cooking blog, one of my German readers disputed my findings that white asparagus isn't worth the effort.

I'll have to try it again, but I'm not looking forward to it.

Posted by KathyF | June 14, 2008 2:31 PM

What's more puzzling: can anyone explain the rationale behind the design of German toilets?

The best explanation I've seen is that you must be confronted with the evidence of your sin. I think I read that in Kundera. Or somewhere else.

Posted by live | June 14, 2008 2:32 PM

A couple of decades ago, when I was living in Bavaria, I visited a wine festival sited next to the European Asparagus Museum, which touts itself as "a specialized museum of international significance." It's three stories high, and has exhibits covering the biology, cultivation, and history and culture(!) of asparagus. I won't say it's actually interesting, but I did pick up a cool museum poster of the place.

Posted by RSA | June 14, 2008 2:39 PM

My German father-in-law said that when he was a boy, if asparagus grew out of the pile and was allowed to turn green they'd feed it to the pigs. White asparagus doesn't have the strong flavor that green asparagus does. It's typically peeled, cooked for longer than most people cook green asparagus and served drowning in butter or cream sauce. Good white asparagus has a mild sweet flavor.

Posted by me2i81 | June 14, 2008 2:53 PM

Indeed. I was in Düsseldorf a few weeks ago and every produce vendor at the local market was hawking multiple specimens of white stuff - thick, thin, short, long, regional varities, etc. One vendor had 10 different types! Meanwhile, my friend refused to shop at any of them, instead using his special farm connection to get asparagus picked that same morning. What is most amazing is that this enormous quantity of asparagus consumption occurs almost entirely within a six-week span, since most Germans refuse to eat it any other time of year, when it's foreign grown and not as fresh. During this late springtime orgy, asparagus is the main course for many a meal, usually with only potatoes as an accompaniment.

Posted by Brendan | June 14, 2008 3:08 PM

Indeed. I was in Düsseldorf a few weeks ago and every produce vendor at the local market was hawking multiple specimens of white stuff - thick, thin, short, long, regional varities, etc. One vendor had 10 different types! Meanwhile, my friend refused to shop at any of them, instead using his special farm connection to get asparagus picked that same morning. What is most amazing is that this enormous quantity of asparagus consumption occurs almost entirely within a six-week span, since most Germans refuse to eat it any other time of year, when it's foreign grown and not as fresh. During this late springtime orgy, asparagus is the main course for many a meal, usually with only potatoes as an accompaniment.

Posted by Brendan | June 14, 2008 3:10 PM

Brendan is right.

I am a German living near Heidelberg where lots of asparagus is grown.

You just have to buy it directly from the farmers, preferably in the late morning (getting it freshly picked from the field earlier this morning).

Add some potatoes, melted butter and some bacon or a Schnitzel and you´re set. Hmmm!!!

We consider it still a seasonal food.

Maybe other food might taste as well if we didn´t demand it all year round? Industrial food production - I´m afraid - isn´t that much concerned with taste. It seems to be more concerned with looks, easy production and storage life.
So just leave us with one seasonal food, please? :)

Posted by Detlef | June 14, 2008 3:59 PM

Best asparagus in the world is grown in Kentucky.

White asparagus is just green asparagus that's been grown to keep it from seeing the sun. So, if you're a typical kid who's afraid of chlorophyll poisoning, white asparagus is your veg.

Steam it and then top it with a bit of hollandaise. And, of course, set a rare tenderloin on the plate next to it.

Posted by Jeffrey Davis | June 14, 2008 4:22 PM

A personal recollection: After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 Danish Radio of cause reported from the scene. As you may remember, the FRG paid 100 DM Begrüßungsgeld to GDR-citizens and the Danish reporter asked some East Germans what they had used the money for.

An elderly gentleman answered: "Asparagus. But I haven't spent all of the money, though".

And there you have the real reason why the GDR never managed to obtain popular legitimacy: No asparagus in the shops.

Posted by Jacob Christensen | June 14, 2008 4:34 PM

par-boil it/chill it/wrap it in prosciutto, grill it, splash with a light lemon/caper/olive oil dressing.

Posted by cleek | June 14, 2008 4:39 PM

RE: Posted by Detlef

I am a German living near Heidelberg where lots of asparagus is grown. You just have to buy it directly from the farmers... Maybe other food might taste as well if we didn´t demand it all year round...

First a question... exactly when is the season. I love asparagus, and since my daughter lives in Germany, I could probably time a visit to enjoy your harvest... if not this year, then another.

Second, an opinion... Almost any food is better harvested and consumed close to home. But life would be terribly boring if all we could eat during our long winters was preserved foods and storage vegetables. We eat asparagus, strawberries, just about anything all year round... but we gorge ourselves on fresh produce when it comes into season nearby.

Posted by LindaJ | June 14, 2008 5:04 PM

RE: Posted by Detlef

I am a German living near Heidelberg where lots of asparagus is grown. You just have to buy it directly from the farmers... Maybe other food might taste as well if we didn´t demand it all year round...

First a question... exactly when is the season. I love asparagus, and since my daughter lives in Germany, I could probably time a visit to enjoy your harvest... if not this year, then another.

Second, an opinion... Almost any food is better harvested and consumed close to home. But life would be terribly boring if all we could eat during our long winters was preserved foods and storage vegetables. We eat asparagus, strawberries, just about anything all year round... but we gorge ourselves on fresh produce when it comes into season nearby.

Posted by LindaJ | June 14, 2008 5:04 PM

Spargelzeit! That's what you see written on a chalkboard in front of nearly every restaurant in Germany this time of year.

To the commenter who asked about toilets, I've heard two explanations from Germans and/or Austrians. One has to do with conserving water, the other has to do with examining your waste for signs of parasites or disease. I'll go with the first one.

Posted by Clark | June 14, 2008 5:40 PM

Linda,

First a question... exactly when is the season. I love asparagus, and since my daughter lives in Germany, I could probably time a visit to enjoy your harvest... if not this year, then another.

Right about now.:)
Seeing the farmers selling right now (Rhine-Neckar region near Heidelberg) ...

This year at least. Let´s say May or early June.
It depends a bit on the weather but late spring seems to be a good choice. Of course you should visit a region where asparagus is actually grown.
That´s when local restaurants are offering it.

Second, an opinion... Almost any food is better harvested and consumed close to home. But life would be terribly boring if all we could eat during our long winters was preserved foods and storage vegetables. We eat asparagus, strawberries, just about anything all year round... but we gorge ourselves on fresh produce when it comes into season nearby.

Sure we do. I do too. :)
I´m just saying that for example Dutch tomatoes here in Europe - available year round - are pretty good looking and "store and transport well" but aren´t that good tasting. Should I even mention their water content?

Lots of other fruits and vegetables - for example - are right now produced in greenhouses in Spain.
Available all year round here in Europe.

I just can´t help to assume that their "breeding" is for "good looking (easy to sell), easy transport and easy storage" and not for tasting well.

Asparagus is one of the few things where many Germans draw the line. :)
I mean strawberries still taste okay even after a x hundred or thousand mile journey.
That´s not true for asparagus.

It doesn´t travel well. Maybe that was the problem of KathyF?
Did she buy fresh asparagus and did she prepare it right?
Cooking it extra long doesn´t sound right?
Although I admit I´m not a cook I´m just eating it. :)

Posted by Detlef | June 14, 2008 6:10 PM

Boiled or steamed asparagus is pretty gross, but then, steaming and boiling does gross things to most vegetables.

Asparagus has two great advantages: it barbecues well, and it's easy to wrap with prosciuto, bacon or other meats.

Posted by too many steves | June 14, 2008 6:15 PM

my favourite memory of spargel is from a couple years ago when I was being driven from heidelberg to frankfurt (to catch a plane home to boston). it was asparagus season and my driver was telling me all about how it is grown, etc etc. he was so intent on finding a field where it is grown, so i could see the long raised rows of soil (Sand?), that he wasn't paying enough attention to the road. bad idea normally, especially bad idea when travelling at 240kph.

Posted by spargel-eater | June 14, 2008 6:57 PM

About white asparagus: First, proper fresh quality cooked right (there are even special pots solely for asparagus which allow you to boil asparagus "standing", so that the thicker stem gets boiled while the more delicate heads only get steamed) is a delicacy. They have nothing to do with the low-quality stuff which is used and "sold" as white asparagus in the US. Typically they are served with either sauce hollandaise or butter, with potatos and ham. Properly prepared, they are certainly superior to the green asparagus which is usually sold throughout the year. White asparagus is a seasonal vegetable.

I have no idea why Matt is so unbelieving about the amount. I mean come on - one pound of asparagus is the normal portion for a single grown-up. Which means that we're talking about three servings per citizen per year. That's really not much.

Posted by Mentar | June 14, 2008 7:03 PM

One pound of asparagus is a normal portion for a single grown-up? Are you serious? That's like an entire bag of asparagus from the store, something like 15-20 stalks. I like me some asparagus, but 3 or 4 stalks next to my steak will be fine, thanks.

Posted by too many steves | June 14, 2008 7:27 PM

Well, most vegetables aren't very exciting just by themselves, if you think about it, and I'd say asparagus is one of the nicer ones. But it's the combination with really good ham, butter or sauce, salt and new potatoes that makes this dish so pleasant.

As for the toilets, yeah, a bit odd I guess, but one advantage is that the water isn't splashing upwards against your private parts, which is a bit gross too on some toilets.

Posted by novakant | June 14, 2008 7:59 PM

Stationed in Germany during a summer ROTC bit, we went through Bruhl (near Mannstein) in spring, 1989. White asparagus extravaganza as insane Germans flooded farmer produce stalls and 50 and 100 mark notes went flying. Bruhl locals said it was what made their town so noted and envied. They also mentioned some movie star we never heard of, couple of Soccer Gods, and Steffi Graf who we had heard of - who had just won the Golden Slam (only person ever).

They said that Steffi was almost as famous then, as their white asparagus. And added that even better than just tennis, one set of Graf's grandparents were farmers noted for their plums and white asparagus. (the Germans, in case it is missed - tend to be a little focused and obsessive.)

And...after all that buildup,to me, the white asparagus we tried ...was...OK..

Asparagus or Fraulein (at the time) Graf?? All I can say is they tried 10 years to get Graf with her big schnozz to be in SI for the swimwear issue and finally succeeded back in 1997, pre-mommyhood.

Results:

http://cgi.cnnsi.com/features/1997/swimsuit/steffi/large/3.html

More impressive than her town's white asparagus, IMHO.

Posted by chris ford | June 14, 2008 8:01 PM

And while we're covering European things: something rather important happened over there yesterday (not football related), Matt, any wisdom you'd like to impart?

Posted by novakant | June 14, 2008 8:04 PM

I'm absolutely serious. One pound of asparagus means around 8 stalks of proper quality. Keep in mind, this is a meal around asparagus, not asparagus as a side-dish to other stuff.

If you go to a restaurant in Germany offering asparagus, then one pound is the default portion.

Posted by Mentar | June 14, 2008 8:11 PM

This piece on the toilets is pretty amusing.

I lived in Hamburg for five months. Strange people. Very big on outdoor drinking, even when freezing rain is pouring down.

Posted by southpaw | June 14, 2008 8:57 PM

"Something to keep in mind if you're having Germans over for dinner."

My instant reaction to this came from Fawlty Towers: Don't mention the War!

Posted by Rich | June 14, 2008 9:13 PM

About 20-odd years ago, I was visiting a client's home office in Zurich. They took me to lunch at an asparagus farm that had a restaurant that served nothing but asparagus. It had a menu with dozens of items on it. The one I had was wonderful. I love asparagus in any form, and I'd cheerfully go back to that place again, if I knew where it is.

Posted by Dick | June 14, 2008 9:31 PM

Re: Detlef

>Of course you should visit a region where >asparagus is actually grown.

Would that include Hanover?

>I just can´t help to assume that >their "breeding" is for "good looking (easy to >sell), easy transport and easy storage" and not >for tasting well.

Absolutely... not to mention disease resistance and high yield etc. Which is, of course, why so few farmers can produce enough to feed the rest of the population. But we've definitely lost something along the way.

Posted by LindaJ | June 14, 2008 10:21 PM

What is most amazing is that this enormous quantity of asparagus consumption occurs almost entirely within a six-week span, since most Germans refuse to eat it any other time of year, when it's foreign grown and not as fresh.

The green asparagus season in England is about six weeks, too, and it's worth avoiding it between times to appreciate the stuff half a day out of the ground in Kent. The same with Italian cherries, which must be coming in just now, and are denied to me at their best by the Atlantic.

As for the Germans, when potatoes and cabbage are your staples most of the year, white asparagus is surely a delicacy.

Posted by pseudonymous in nc | June 14, 2008 10:51 PM

Detlef: Calais is only a couple of hours from here, so traveling shouldn't have been the problem. You can read about my disappointing experience here. It's very difficult to prepare, compared to green, and has far less taste, so why bother?

Green asparagus, on the other hand, is divine this time of year. I get fresh British asparagus--for about $6 for a dozen or so small stalks. But it's worth it.

Posted by KathyF | June 15, 2008 1:07 AM

Would that include Hanover?

The Hanover region is one of if not the biggest asparagus producers in Germany. The town itself is pretty ugly and really boring and the people are a bit stiff, but all of that can be quite pleasant as it's totally average, non-threatening and predictable.

Posted by novakant | June 15, 2008 4:47 AM

I'm with KathyF on this - I converted two Europeans to green asparagus (on a visit to Europe) by grilling the fine green stalks at their home. They wanted to pay three times as much for white asparagus at the market. Sorry, I'm happy to go with a more robust and earthy flavor of healthy looking green stalks, esp. at a cheaper price there!, than the bland, mushy and wan stars of the spargelkartes I've sampled there. (I'm sure someone somewhere sometime did something absolutely wonderful with them - so hurrah for that time!) I've got European roots and admire or love much about my ancestral continent, but they really do get some basic things wrong now and then.....

Posted by JKlemm | June 15, 2008 2:51 PM

Green and white asperagus are very much different. It's true that you need better cooking skills to properly prepare the white version, but done well, they are certainly superior. Typical mistakes include:

1) Not peeling them properly (this is key)

2) Cooking them with the wrong equipment (horizontally instead of vertically)

3) Cooking them too long, so that the asparagus loses its natural bite

4) Serving them as side-dish to a dominating main

For example, the white version is vastly superior for cooking a delicious soup (good secondary use for the peels btw). The green type is less suited for that. Grilling green ones is yummy though!

In any case, it's not the fault of the white version if it takes more experience to prepare it correctly. This "I know better" snobism is pretty unbecoming.

Posted by Mentar | June 15, 2008 6:50 PM

I mean strawberries still taste okay even after a x hundred or thousand mile journey.

Nope. They taste like woody crap. Strawberries taste best if they have never been refrigerated. We've got a glorious strawberry season and you can buy fresh picked strawberries for a few weeks a year.

Yeah, I eat California Strawberries and Peruvian Asparagus year-round. But I don't pretend its as good as the frech stuff.

Posted by Straw man | June 16, 2008 10:06 AM